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What's at the root of our hair choices? Three writers unravel the state of their strands—read the stories below, here, and here.
A lovely Senegalese woman called Naa opened a hair-braiding salon that was wedged between the bodega and the pizza joint a block away from my apartment. I walked by the place for months while longing for a change in my life. The career pivot that had been on hold during the pandemic and the elusive “forever” relationship hadn’t come to fruition yet, but—I eventually realized—switching up my hairstyle could happen right now.
In the early days of the pandemic, I had traded my wash-and-go for a lower-maintenance twist-out that I’d pull back into a bun. It was easy...but boring. Besides, I was ready to ditch the look I associated with that period of monotony. Braids would also be more practical—I was about to travel to Marrakech for my first post-pandemic vacation, a joyous birthday celebration with friends. So I booked an appointment for cornrow pigtails, which are quick to create and take out. I did not want to relive the agony of the full-day braiding sessions I endured in high school and college with the misguided hope that I’d look like Brandy.
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This wasn’t my first time getting braids—but it was the right time. With my new hair, I’d begun to feel like my old self, the optimistic, outgoing person I used to be before isolation, doom-scrolling, and three years of fear and uncertainty took their toll. The ripple effect was real. I found the energy to reconnect with old colleagues and friends and generally live my life with more gusto. Finally, I could see tangible change, even if it was just my hair. It was the start of my Braids Era. I’ve since rocked a cornrow bun that made me feel both edgy and elegant, big cornrows that I combined into a side braid—a cool, sophisticated style inspired by actress Tia Mowry—and midsize, navel-length box braids that reignited my youthful spirit (minus the low-rise jeans). There will be blonde braids this summer, and I expect to have more fun; expressing myself with braids is a blast.
There’s another layer to it, too. “When clients come to me in braids, I see it as a signal that they’re on a growth journey,” says celebrity colorist Greg Gilmore. “Whether you think of it this way or not, putting your hair in braids gives you more time to do the things you want to do in the world. They let you focus on growing you.” My braids have given me a sense of relief. Look, I’m all for the natural hair movement that reemerged in the early aughts. It’s important and empowering. But the upkeep is exhausting. I don’t miss the time-consuming, product-heavy styling routine. Based on the many braids and fewer wash-and-goes and twist-outs I see in New York City these days, my guess is that I’m not alone. The funny thing is that I’m doing less but getting noticed more, fielding compliments from strangers, friends, and fellow braid wearers.
Njeri Radway has seen the power of braids firsthand. She’s the pro who braided and styled Michelle Obama’s hair for her portrait unveiling and book tour. When Obama, the first African American First Lady of the United States, returned to the White House wearing tree braids, it was more than a style that exudes pride in our culture; it was a statement. I interpreted the praise that followed as a sign that maybe our country is going through a growth journey of its own. “Deep down, we’ve all wanted to do this—to be us and not feel judged because of our hair. Braids are about that freedom,” says Radway. They’ve certainly given me the freedom to come into my own.
Baze Mpinja is a Brooklyn-based writer, editor, and brand consultant with 20 years of experience in the beauty world.
